Regency Franken-patterning (Part 1)

I know I've heard the term "frankenpatterning" out there before. I definitely was not the first one to coin the term, but in this month's project I may have embraced it too hard. Like everyone this spring, I got onto the Bridgerton train and even read all the books, because well, that's just me. Anyway, after some massive binging of costumers/historical fashion amazing people/makers on youtube I thought this might be a fun category to try to make something. I do not have anything Regency in my wardrobe, but this will be a fun place to start. Once the thrift stores opened back up, I got 2 twin sheets in this lavender/light plum shade that gave me define Rapunzel vibes. I actually only ended up using one of these, so you will definitely be seeing the other used here at some point. 

I started my design ideas with the green dress from the 2005 Pride & Prejudice because, well I've been trash for that movie since I was in high school.

I also came across this pink number which reminded me a lot of the P&P dress while on a late night scroll-a-thon on IG. I've included the link to the website on the photo too, although I have done no research about the company, so proceed as you will. 

With these two designs in mind, I found some patterns to help me since I have zero experience with Regency dresses, as mentioned. I picked up a copy of the American Duchess (love, love, love them and their beautiful shoes) Simplicity pattern S8941 and New Look N6656. 

I wanted the gathered underbust and gentle swoop from the N6656 pattern but the classic Regency dress back from the S8941. So begun the franken-drafting.

I measured and chose my size and traced the N6656 pattern front in blue on some drafting paper up until about halfway up the shoulder. I then grabbed my size of the S8941 pattern and using the underarm as my measuring point, traced the shoulder and upper neck in green. Using a french curve, I found points I was happy enough with and melded the two together and cut that out. 

I used the side back pattern of the S8941, extending the length to match the front of the altered piece. The center back I ended up extending several times, twice before my mock up, and once afterwards. 

I actually made a mock up. I know, shocking. If you know me at all, I never study for tests, and I leave most things to the last minute so actually making a mock up was kind of a big deal. Even though technically it was barely half a mock up made up of some scary leftover fabric from a project long, long ago made for a friend with supplies she bought (that's a rant for another time though friends). 

My shoulder is a bit wonky, and I wanted the back with a slightly more defined downward sweep. I added some extra space to the back and took away a bit of the shoulder.

I then went to cutting and sewing which went really smooth for the bodice. I though about putting in a zipper for about a second, but just couldn't do that to a historical pattern so I made a lapped section that I'll put some hook and eyes. Much more traditional.

My first fitting was after I put the skirt in, and it was well... lackluster. I felt very Midwest prairie girl which was not the look I was after.

So, I need to unpick the waist seam, take everything in a couple inches, and restructure the gathers. I tried to be lazy in some areas and not do the double rows of gathers and it definitely shows.  

I also want to lower the neckline a bit so it looks more Regency. I think looking back to Lizzie Bennet's dress, I want to go for about that height. 

Back to the sewing room friends.